Vogue's AI Model Sparks Debate on Beauty and Beyond

Vogue’s AI Model Sparks Debate on Beauty and Beyond

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Vogue's AI Model Sparks Debate on Beauty and Beyond

The fashion world, long a trendsetter, recently unveiled its latest frontier: an Artificial Intelligence (AI) model featured in a new ad campaign within Vogue magazine. This isn’t just a picture; it’s a meticulously designed character named Viven, born from code and creativity, and her debut has unleashed a torrent of backlash regarding beauty standards and the future of the industry.

What Exactly is an AI Model?

Created by architects Valentina Gonzalez and Andrea Petrescu, co-founders of Serora, an AI model is a digital character built from scratch to represent a brand’s identity. Unlike human models, AI models don’t exist in the physical world; they are designed, given a name, and imbued with a personality – whether “feminine,” “bold,” or “tall”. They are characters used exclusively for campaigns and Photoshop, with no life beyond that.

Why Are Brands Turning to AI?

While the immediate question might be why not book a human model, the creators emphasize that AI models are not about replacement, but supplementation. Brands like Guess continue to use traditional models, simply adding AI models to their marketing avenues. The reasons for this shift are compelling:

  • Efficiency and Speed: Traditional photoshoots are time-consuming, requiring months of planning, travel to locations, and obtaining permissions. In contrast, an AI model can be built once and then “always exists when you need her,” able to be dressed and placed “anywhere in the world” very quickly.
  • Brand Alignment: AI models can be perfectly sculpted to fit a brand’s DNA. The creators work closely with a brand’s creative director to define the model’s features to ensure she “represents the brand”.
Vogue's AI Model Sparks Debate on Beauty and Beyond

The Heart of the Backlash: A Step Backward for Diversity?

The significant concern, voiced by individuals like Ashley James, is that these AI models represent a “dangerous step backwards for women”. Many argue that after a period from around 2015 that saw a welcome surge in diversity in modeling – including body diversity, different races, disabled models, and trans models – the rise of AI models signals an “overall shift backwards”.

Key points of contention include:

  • Unrealistic Comparisons: Consumers, particularly young girls, are now comparing themselves to “people who don’t even exist” – a fantasy.
  • Male Gaze and Eurocentric Ideals: Critics point out that much of the AI technology was created by men, leading to AI models often reflecting a “male gaze fantasy of a woman” and a “eurocentric ideal of beauty”. This frequently manifests as “big boobs and the small waist and the blonde hair and the blue eyes,” perpetuating a narrow standard of beauty.
  • Lack of Transparency: The photorealistic quality of these AI models is so advanced that consumers often cannot distinguish them from real people. This has led to calls for disclaimers, similar to discussions around declaring the use of filters or Photoshop in campaigns. The worry extends beyond Instagram to platforms like OnlyFans and porn, where AI models present visions of women that are “obedient” and “don’t answer back”.
  • Job Displacement: There are concerns that as tech replaces human roles in various industries, AI models could displace human creatives like makeup artists and stylists in the multi-billion dollar fashion industry.

The Creators' Perspective

Valentina Gonzalez and Andrea Petrescu address the beauty standards criticism by stating that they are entering an industry where the “standard [is] already set”. They highlight that:

  • Client Directives Rule: They work directly with clients who dictate the desired aesthetic. If a company wants a plus-size model or a model with different features, they can create that. They are effectively serving client needs within existing industry norms.
  • Art, Not Reality: They believe AI models should be viewed as “art,” similar to a statue or a painting, and that individuals “do not compare ourselves to art”. They emphasize the crucial reminder that “she doesn’t actually exist, she’s digital”.
  • Business Realities: As a business, they track public engagement to attract clients. To “make a change” in industry standards, they first need to “become relevant” within the current landscape.

This fascinating development in marketing underscores a complex interplay between technological advancement, commercial needs, and societal impact. As AI models become more prevalent, the conversation around digital ethics, representation, and the very definition of beauty will undoubtedly continue to evolve.

What exactly is an AI model and who created the one featured in Vogue?

An AI model is a digital character meticulously built from scratch to represent a brand's identity. Its creators design every aspect, from eye and hair color to specific features, and imbue it with a personality—whether "feminine," "bold," or "tall". These models are given names, such as Viven, but they exist solely for campaigns and Photoshop, with no life outside of these applications. The AI model showcased in Vogue's new ad campaign was created by Valentina Gonzalez and Andrea Petrescu, who are architects and co-founders of Serora.

Brands are not looking to replace human models but rather to supplement their marketing efforts with new digital avenues, as traditional models continue to be used. One major advantage of AI models is their efficiency and speed; unlike physical photoshoots that demand months of planning, travel, and permission acquisition, an AI model, once built, "always exists when you need her". They can be dressed quickly and placed "anywhere in the world". Furthermore, AI models can be precisely tailored to fit a brand's DNA, with creators working closely with a brand's creative director to ensure the model perfectly "represents the brand". As a business, attracting clients relies on public engagement, which AI models can help generate.

The introduction of AI models has sparked considerable backlash, with critics like Ashley James arguing that they represent a "dangerous step backwards for women". Many feel that after a period of significant progress in diversity in modeling from around 2015, which saw increased representation across body types, races, and gender identities, the rise of AI models signifies an "overall shift backwards". A major worry is that consumers, especially young girls, are now comparing themselves to "people who don't even exist"—a complete fantasy. Critics also highlight that much of the AI technology was developed by men, leading to AI models often reflecting a "male gaze fantasy of a woman" and a "eurocentric ideal of beauty," characterized by features like "big boobs and the small waist and the blonde hair and the blue eyes". The photorealistic nature of these models means it's often impossible for consumers to distinguish them from real people, leading to calls for disclaimers similar to those for filters or Photoshop. Beyond beauty, there are concerns about AI models on platforms like OnlyFans and porn, where they present "obedient" visions of women who "don't answer back". Additionally, there's apprehension about potential job displacement for human creatives like makeup artists and stylists in the multi-billion dollar fashion industry.

Valentina Gonzalez and Andrea Petrescu acknowledge the beauty standards discussion but point out that they are "entering an industry that already had the standard set". They emphasize that their work is client-driven, meaning if a company requests a plus-size model or one with different features, they are capable of creating it. From their perspective, to "make a change" in industry standards, they must first "become relevant" within the existing landscape. They also suggest that AI models should be viewed as "art," similar to a statue or a painting, asserting that individuals "do not compare ourselves to art". They frequently reiterate the crucial point that "she doesn't actually exist, she's digital," appearing only when needed. As a business, they track public engagement and have tested various types of beauty on their social media to understand public response, which is vital for attracting clients.

Ashley James argues that AI models should indeed come with a disclaimer because their photorealistic quality makes it incredibly difficult for the average person to discern that they are not real. She notes that there has already been discussion and campaigns advocating for transparency regarding the use of filters or Photoshop in advertising. The concern is that without such disclaimers, consumers are left unable to distinguish "what's real or not," leading to potentially damaging comparisons to non-existent ideals.

An AI model is a digital character created from scratch by designers for marketing campaigns. Unlike human models, AI models are entirely artificial, with their appearance (e.g., eye color, hair color, features) and even personality traits being meticulously designed to represent a specific brand's identity. They exist solely for campaigns and digital usage and do not have a life outside of these applications.

A significant concern is the potential for a "dangerous step backwards" in beauty standards. Critics argue that AI models, often designed to a "male gaze fantasy" and a Eurocentric ideal of beauty (e.g., blonde hair, blue eyes, small waist, large bust), perpetuate unrealistic and narrow beauty ideals. This trend counteracts the recent progress seen in diversity (body, race, disability, trans representation) in the modeling industry, potentially leading to increased body image issues and self-comparison among young people, especially women, to non-existent figures. Furthermore, there are worries about job displacement for human creatives (makeup artists, stylists) and models within the multi-billion-dollar industry.

The creators, Valentina Gonzalez and Andrea Petrescu, acknowledge the discussions around beauty standards but emphasize that their models are designed to meet specific client briefs. They explain that their social media content aims for engagement, which often aligns with popular beauty ideals for business viability. However, they assert that if a client requests a plus-size or more diverse model, they are capable of creating one, as they adapt to the client's needs within the existing industry standards rather than setting new trends from the outset. They also liken AI models to art, suggesting that individuals should not compare themselves to them as they are purely digital creations.

While the creators of AI models argue that they supplement rather than replace human models, there is a concern that AI technology could lead to job displacement across the creative industry. This includes not only models but also photographers, makeup artists, and stylists. The rise of AI models is seen by some as a reflection of capitalism's tendency to reduce human labor for profit, potentially leading to fewer people being able to work in these fields in the long term.

Critics, such as Ashley James, argue that the AI model represents a "dangerous step backwards for women". After a period from around 2015 that saw a significant and welcome increase in diversity in modeling—including body diversity, various races, disabled models, and trans models—the introduction of AI models is seen as an "overall shift backwards".

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